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Diamond Daydream Scarf Pattern

The Diamond Daydream Scarf is made up of clusters, shells, and chains. I haven’t written many patterns, so please let me know if something is unclear or wrong. Thanks in advance! (Please be gentle, I’m fragile! haha).

 

Diamond Daydream Scarf

Skill Level: Easy

Yarn: I used Bernat Bamboo which is considered a 5 – Bulky weight.  I used 4 skeins of the Bamboo, which are 2.1 oz each. My scarf ended up being 6 inches wide by 5 foot long. (Personally I don’t think this yarn is very bulky, but hey, whatever floats Bernat’s boat!)

Hook:  H-8

Terminology:

DC – Double crochet

Ch – chain

St – stitch

YO – Yarn over

Special Stitches:

Shell – A shell consists of 4 Double Crochets in the same 1 stitch, which is the ‘tip’ of the cluster from the row below.

Cluster – A cluster is worked over the 4 stitches from the shell in the row below.

To make the cluster:

  1. Yarn Over (YO), insert hook through the first stitch of the shell, YO, draw the yarn through the stitch, YO, draw the yarn through first two loops on the hook. You should have 2 loops still on the hook.
  2. YO, insert hook through next stitch, YO, draw the yarn through the stitch, YO, draw through first two loops on the hook. Now you should have 3 loops left on hook.
  3. YO, insert hook through next stitch, YO, draw yarn through the stitch, YO, draw through first two loops on hook. 4 loops left on hook.
  4. YO, insert hook through next stitch, YO, draw yarn through the stitch, YO, draw through first two looks on hook. YO, pull through all remaining 5 loops left on the hook.

Note: A half cluster works steps 1 – 3. At end of step 3, YO and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

 

Chain 24 + 3.

Row 1:   2  DC in 4th st from hook. *Chain 2, skip 2 st then work a cluster over next 4 st. Ch-2, skip 2 st then work a shell in the next st.* Repeat from * to * once. Ch-2, work a half-cluster over last 3 st.

Row 2: Ch 3 (this counts as first DC). 2 DC in next st. *Chain 2, then work a cluster over  the 4 st of the shell below. Ch-2, work a shell in the top st from the cluster below.* Repeat from * to * once. Ch-2, work a half-cluster over last 3 st (3rd st is the top st of the chain 3 from row below).

Repeat Row 2 until scarf is desired length. Finish off row and weave tails into scarf.

 

NOTE 1: I have started a second scarf using Deborah Norville Everyday yarn ( 4 worsted weight) using an I hook. The scarf is almost 7 inches wide. My Mom tested the pattern using Bernat Softee Baby yarn (3 sport weight) and a size G hook and the scarf is approximately 4 inches wide.

NOTE 2: This pattern should easily transfer into an afghan pattern by doing the chain in multiples of 24 then adding +3 at the end of the chain to be the turning chain/first DC.

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Teaching Crochet

Wednesday night we had our monthly Eye For Fiber craft group meeting. The agenda on Wednesday was for my Mom and I to teach some of the other ladies how to crochet (they are all knitters). One of the ladies had suggested it at our last meeting because she wanted to be able to add some crocheted ruffles to her knitted fingerless gloves. I need to take my camera to the next meeting and get a good picture to share of her gloves, they are awesome!

We had fun and I think everyone learned the basics needed to get a decent start on things: how to do the initial chain, how many to add for a turning chain based on what stitch you are doing, how to do a SC, HDC, DC, and TR (or TC). Plus how to increase rows and how to make a ruffle.

 

Since I had mentioned our plans to my team at work in the morning before the meeting, they were curious the next day to see how things went. And I now have at least one co-worker who would like me to teach her the basics! I think I am one of the very very few at my work that even knows how to crochet, but it makes me wonder if anyone else there would like to learn. It might be fun to teach a few more people this wonderful craft!

 

 

Leapfrog Crochet Border

I was reading a post on Made In K-Town’s blog where she was trying to decide on a border for her magic blanket once she has the blanket itself finished. The blanket is primarily white on one side, gray on the other, with stripes of various colors mixed in. She was wondering what color to pick to make the base round of the border blend in.

After studying the blanket and thinking about it, I mentioned in a comment that she could use both the white and the gray and leapfrog the colors around the blanket. Then I thought more about it and decided maybe I should see if it works. I’ve never seen this technique before, although it may be out there in the world somewhere. But here I hope to show you what’s in my head and how I pictured the border.

So I whipped up a quick granny square then grabbed two contrasting colors so that the stitches would show easier for a tutorial. I’ve not done a tutorial like this before, so please bear with me as I try to explain this technique.

sc = single crochet

B1 – border color 1 (blue in tutorial)

B2 – border color 2 (orange in tutorial)

1. Attach B1 with a sc then pull the loop a little bigger, slip the hook out of the loop:

2. Put the hook though the next stitch, make a slipknot with B2 on the hook:

3. Wrap the yarn over the hook then pull through the slipknot and the stitch, leaving a nice size loop:

4. Take the hook out of the B2 loop, put back through the B1 loop and then the B2 loop again, re-tighten both loops up to a normal tension:

5. Wrap the B2 around the hook and finish the sc, making sure the B1 is carried along:

6. Continue to insert hook through next sc and pick up the opposite color than what’s currently looped on the hook and finish the sc, making sure to carry the other color along under the stitch.

The back of the border has an interesting look as well:

As mentioned above, this is (as far as I can recall) the first I’ve done this type of tutorial for a technique I just thought of, so please let me know if you need more pictures and/or clarification and I will try to help.

I hope you like this border!

 

Edit to add: Me being the curious crocheter that I am sometimes, I decided to see how a small swatch would look like doing this technique. While easy, it is very time-consuming, between having to concentrate on color switches and untangling the skeins. But I think it does have a very interesting look to it:

US Crochet vs UK Crochet

Conversion Chart:

UK Term –> US Term:

DC –> SC

HTR –> HDC

TR –> DC

Ever read a pattern and wonder, why does it matter if you use US Crochet stitches with a UK Crochet pattern without doing the stitch conversion? After all, shouldn’t it still turn out looking the same, maybe just a little different size?

Well if you are making something where size really does matter (haha), then yes, it matters a great deal whether or not you use the correct terms and correct stitches for what YOU know. Wouldn’t you hate to get that gorgeous sweater completely made, only to find out that you could fit three of you in it now because you didn’t convert the stitches over?

Did you learn US terminology and stitches growing up?  So you know that in US terminology that a DC (double crochet) is where you yarn over hook, insert through required stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over again, pull through remaining two loops on hook. Well in UK terminology, that same stitch described above, is a TR, or a triple crochet!

What UK terminology calls a DC (double crochet), is what the US terminology calls a SC (single crochet).

If you have any experience at all with the basic stitches, you know how different something can look depending if you’re using all SC, DC, TR, or any other stitch.

In the pictures below, I am going to show you some of the differences that can happen when you use the wrong terminology for the pattern (i.e. using US stitches with a UK pattern without converting).

The first picture, I used the Teeny Tiny Flowers pattern from Attic24. The flower on the left used the correct conversion from UK stitches to US stitches: if the pattern called for a UK DC, I used the US SC.  The flower on the right, I read the pattern exactly as written, and used the US stitches that correspond without doing any conversion (i.e. when it called for a UK DC, I used a US DC):

See the differences between the two flowers? Not only is the one on the right bigger, the shape is loose as well compared to the correctly made flower on the left.

In the next picture, I just did a few rows using the following pattern (we’re pretending it is written in UK terminology):

Row 1: Chain 16, turn, DC across (15 st)

Row 2-5: ch 1, DC across

Again, the one on the left takes the pattern and correctly converts it from UK to US terminology. The one on the right, uses US stitches exactly as the pattern is written (i.e. uses a US DC where it calls for DC instead of converting the pattern) [I didn’t shape/block them before the pictures, sorry!]:

If this was the start of your gorgeous sweater…well you can see the difference!

I hope that I helped you and didn’t confuse you with this post. Please let me know if I need to clarify anything.

Have YOU made anything recently and forgot to do the conversion from one terminology to the other?

Granny’s Daughters and Yo-Yo’s

Since I did a post on Saltines, I thought maybe I should do a post on Granny Daughters and Yo-Yo’s as well.

Granny Daughters are even easier than Saltines. They are the first round of a granny square. That’s it! So if you wanted to use the pattern I posted in the Saltines post, you would just make the ring and the first round:

Granny Daughters:

Chain 6, slst into first ch to make a ring.

R1 – ch 3 (counts as first dc). 2dc into ring. ch 2. (3 dc, ch2) 3x into ring. slst into top of ch3. Fasten off.

It’s just that easy! (note: I did not fasten off on the one in the above picture because I plan on turning it into a Saltine, but I wanted to share a picture of a Daughter).

Yo-Yo’s on the other hand are different. From my understanding, they are a flat circle, around 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter.  There is a thread for Yo Yo’s for Charity on Crochetville with a very simple pattern in the first post.

Give me a couple minutes here and I’ll whip one up to share with you.

 

 

 

 

 

Hey, quit pushing! I asked for just a couple minutes. I’m almost done…

 

 

 

 

 

There, it’s done! Was it worth the wait?

I know, I know it’s just a circle, but think of the possibilities you can do with a bunch of circles! You can donate them to the Yo Yo’s for Charity group that I linked above, or another charity if you have one in mind. Or you can alter them a bit to join as you go and create amazing looking wall-hangings, blankets, purses, clothing, and more.

Check out what this lady did with her YoYo’s:

Sunshine’s Creations

Sunshine’s YoYos

 

Saltines in Crocheting?

What do saltines have to do with crocheting, other than being a snack? A pretty good snack at that, except for the crumbs that tumble down and want to stick to the yarn. And the salt that sticks to your fingers. Plus they are kind of dry so you also need something to drink with you.

But…

Saltines are also the name of a square in crocheting. A Saltine is simply the first two rounds of a basic granny square. If you’ve ever made granny squares, you already know how to make Saltines! As you may also know, there are dozens upon dozens (at least 100) different granny squares that can be made. To my understanding though, a Saltine is just made with the basic pattern.

Again though, that can be different depending on what basic granny pattern you use. Do you ch 3 between each set? ch 2? ch 2 in corners and only ch1 on sides? or do you skip any chains on the sides?

When I started making granny squares back in the day (No, I’m not going to say how long ago that was… but we will say it was at least a couple decades ago…) I used the ch 3 between each set of 3 dcs. When I look at some of the squares I made back then (and yeah… I still have a stack of them!) I see how sloppy it kind of looks.

I’ve since changed to having only ch1 or ch2 between each set of 3 dc, depending on which yarn I’m using. Bulkier yarns seem to get the ch2 between each set to make it easier to get the next round in.

This is how I’ve been making my Saltines (the pattern may seem similar to others, there are only so many ways to make a granny square. This is how I make mine, written in my own words):

Using Loops and Threads Charisma and a K hook –

Saltines:

Chain 6, slst into first ch to make a ring.

R1 – ch 3 (counts as first dc). 2dc into ring. ch 2. (3 dc, ch2) 3x into ring. slst into top of ch3.

R2 – turn, slst into ch2 sp, ch 3  (counts as first dc). 2dc into ch2 sp, ch 2, 3 dc into same ch2 sp. ch2. (3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2) in each of the remaining 3 corners (ch2 spaces from previous row). slst into top of first ch3. finish off.

 

Nice and simple huh?

Here are some pictures of the Saltines I made last night before bed:

(Yes, these are all made from the same skein of yarn. Loops and Threads Charisma – Bouquet)

 

The Russian Join

Just a quick post today to share something new (to me anyway).

Thanks to the folks over at Crochetville, I have learned a new way to join yarn together called The Russian Join. I have been working on the border of a flannelghan, trying to finish it up, and I was running short on one ball of yarn. I decided instead of using some of the other ways I’ve used in the past to connect the new yarn (dropping the old partway through the stitch and picking up the new, tying together in a knot, etc) I would instead try the Russian Join I had been hearing people talk about on Crochetville.

If you follow the link above for The Russian Join, you will find a great tutorial on how to do this easy and effective join. The tutorial is a slide show and very easy to follow and understand, in my opinion. I got the join done and correct with the first try. As much as I pull on the yarn, it is holding nice and tight. Once it is crocheted in, I doubt it will even be visible to anyone as to where the join even is.

 

This is a picture of my first Russian Join using Caron Simply Soft in Heather Gray:

Try it out. It is worth it. Trust me!